Tartan Tarmac Top Three
May ‘22
Only midges outnumber the motorhomes?
Maybe, but the draw remains and the western highlands of Scotland continue to offer some of the greatest motorcycling to be found in the UK.
Here are just three roads that are special to me, you may have your own and there are thousands more miles waiting to be explored.
1) A87 Invergarry to Shiel Bridge
Glen Garry Filling Station is patrolled by free range chickens. For a wee tickle they might check your strips. Whether your rubber stands up to poultry scrutiny may depend on whether you rode in from the west or the east. If the latter, then what now lies ahead is not only one of the greatest biking roads to be found on this island but frankly, anywhere at all. Best take on some fuel, you may need all you can carry.
The A87 runs just short of a hundred miles from Invergarry all the way to Uig on the Isle of Skye but the first half is why you are here. In the latest edition of Bikers’ Britain, none other than route plan supremo Simon Weir opted to upgrade the standard route of the North Coast 500 to 600 miles to include the road, presumably to ensure he could sleep soundly at night. There is a lot to take on board and it begins immediately. Passing the hotel and clearing the town, friendly climbing camber helps warm the tyres. The twisting forest thickens for a time before opening out on the left to reveal an ‘A list’ horizon and the loch below. On the over-run, bagpipes may be heard in the wind. During high season, a large kilted man pauses from snacking on a badger (or it may be a beard) to earn a million yen an hour entertaining visitors emptying from mini-vans at Glen Garry viewpoint. Take care to avoid carelessly strewn tins of shortbread as the route turns north. Apex to apex, turn to turn, the angles relent only once for the junction at Bun Loyne.
Turning left, the road begins to widen slightly along with view and perspective. Altitude thins both foliage and human settlement and a sense of wilderness begins. Tarmac cuts into and along the steep landscape to the right whilst, on the left, there is the welcome company of Loch Cluanie for lengthy stretches. Then the prospect of descent. Long sweeping entries and exit arcs examine throttle hand, gear selection and front compression. Risk both deception and disappointment from your on board data if you didn’t take on recent fuel - for the old petrol station at Glen Shiel is now an artisan chocolate shop. In short order you are barrelling like an unruly child towards the mountainous bosom of the Five Sisters of Kintail. In their imposing shadow, there is a choice to be made. Turn left at Shiel Bridge and head up and over to Glenelg and catch the tiny ferry to Skye. Round the next turn, find coffee, cake and some welcome road side reflection at the Wee Bun House. Keep on rolling towards the Kyle of Lochalsh, perhaps crossing the bridge on to the giant and spectacular cul-de-sac of Skye. Or double back and repeat.
Bavarian beefcake rests by Loch Cluanie
2) A816 Lochgilpead to Oban
One way to manage energy and concentration levels during west highland tours is to ferry hop. Calmac fares are inexpensive for bikes and utilising them can perform the dual purpose of enforced but welcome down time - whilst still on the move - and open up route options off the beaten track. Oban is the gateway to Mull, which in turn allows short hop access to the glens above Morvern (via Fishnish) and the remote but incomparable treasures of the Ardnamurchan peninsula (via Tobermory). The A816 to the port is more forested wind than mountain trek and can be accessed by looping through Inveraray, from Campbeltown in the south or even a Tarbert ferry from the south western coast of Argyll. The forty mile section from Lochgilpead begins steadily, with gentle curves and some long straights easing you north. The approach to the village of Kilmartin is dominated by a striking view across fields towards the church; flanked by mediaeval masonry, ancient gravestones and celtic crosses.
The road begins to snake and undulate, rising gradually through heathery glens. Some inspired soul has built an epic grand design to the left of the road overlooking Asknish Bay. Acres of vertical glass and stripy grass, a modernist trophy set in a bowl of highland greenery. The drama reflects back between the gentle waves. Here, the fringes of the Argyll forest are felled frequently. Oozing sap and pine mist hang in the air, filling the nostrils as you canter by. At Knipoch, gaggles of yachts rest on the loch as the route mixes woodland switchbacks, blind crests and open heath. When the descent towards Oban begins, perhaps thoughts switch to a ferry date to be kept. A longer crossing than many, this one is best booked ahead. Keep time in hand to navigate Oban, it is often bustling and somewhat congested. After check in, departure usually allows for pedestrian access from the ferry terminal to the portside eateries. The seafood shack does big numbers. There is also a small cafe offering laudable and local wholefood produce but under no circumstances be tempted by the organic cola. It is utter gash and possibly better used for cleaning brake calipers.
3) Quiraing Pass, Skye - Stenscholl to Idrigill
Some time ago, with misspelled tunefulness, Fleetwood Mac opined that Skye is the Limit. When you reach this far north east on the island, it certainly begins to feel that way. There are a couple of reasons why even bothering to reach this short ridge pass is worthwhile. First and foremost, whichever end you choose to begin, you will ‘complete’ the A87. Either side of Skye bridge is tightly limit controlled for a decent distance and frankly a bit of a plod, but stick with it past Broadford and the onward journey to Portree is a spectacular twist of tarmac tracing the sharp Skye slopes and roadside waterfalls. Venture beyond Portree, peeling off the A87, and single track carries you north eastwards past the Old Man of Storr towards Staffin Bay, a second alternative reason for taking the detour. Coastal cliffs rise high above the waves below, ancient ridges pointing your view across the bay to the distant beaches of Ross & Cromarty. From land to sea, the vast vista shrinks you within with its scale. Plenty of spots to pause along here but take extra care, as typically no-one is looking at the road ahead.
The Quiraing is a landslip on the northernmost summit of the Trotternish mountains. The route that traverses the ridge is unnumbered and links the east and west coasts of Skye. This tells you most of what you need to know about its remote nature and what to expect. Blink and you’ll miss the left turn to begin the climb, taken from a sharp rising right hander as you wind through the tiny east side townships. The stramash of third and fourth gear bravery is now left way behind on the A87, replaced by an enforced passive state of progress through prehistoric nature. As you rise slowly leaving the bay behind, waterfalls on huge faces of ancient rock spill a wash of vertical tears from laden sky to lush foothills. A few short but steep hairpins and the summit is reached. There is a busy carpark serving view finders and ridge walkers on the plateau. Untested in full but be assured that the zealous traffic wardens unsurprisingly have little else to occupy them elsewhere in this postcode. Pressing on westwards is punctuated by babbling streams and expansive swathes of rolling heathland. Cresting this reveals elevated views of the western ferry port of Uig and shortly after, a firm but familiar handshake from the northern tip of the A87. Southbound it is then.
Loch Duich & Kintail from Ratagan Pass
